Saturday, December 18, 2010

Picturing Egypt

One of the few remaining pieces of ancient statuary, now outside the Alexandria Blibliotheque
In the backalley souq

Fishing boat, in the Mediterranean Sea
Seaside pussins
They don't look it, but these boys were actually very nice and friendly




pegs for sale in the souq



View of Alexandria from the Corniche

Friday, December 17, 2010

Well Alexandria, things are looking up

Ugh. I'm glad we left.
 We weren't really enjoying the Hotel Acropole last night ... and this morning, I'm not sure whether the last straw was the unflushed putrescent mess that greeted me in the communal toilet, or the revolting pools of water and hair all over the tiled floor of the bathroom.

Either way, we took an immediate decision to bail on our booking and shift hotels. Luckily for us, right across the road was the Hotel Triomphe - and this time, we asked specifically for a room with an ensuite bathroom; AND, we asked to see it before we signed up. 

Room viewed and approved, we ran back across the road, collected our bags, vanished down the four flights of stairs (avoiding the death-trap of a lift, see the photos below), and promptly checked ourselves into the Triomphe. It's very Agatha Christie here, with wrought ironwork and shabby furniture and lovely ancient cracked marble floors and derelict bits of art deco architecture and two very nice old men who look after it. We are much happier.

Exhibit A: death trap.
Exhibit B: deaaaaaath traaaaaap!
 In fact, today we are much happier all around - it's been spectacular. Once the hotel was sorted out, we started things off with this - a Turkish coffee so thick you could practically have stood a spoon up in it. Now that's more like it.


More to come tomorrow. But now, it's time for beer.

Thursday, December 16, 2010

Hello Alexandria, you're crap so far

....but well, perhaps it's too early to judge.

In defence of this city - the former capital of Egypt, the seat of Egyptian power under Cleopatra and Roman power under Alexander the Great, the home of the legendary Library of Alexandria and lighthouse - it's not actually Alexandria's fault.

If the holiday the White Witch and I had in Lebanon was a perfect example of kismet and wondrous serendipity, this one is (so far) a little of the opposite.

First of all, we are in the Hotel Acropole, which has one star under the Egyptian ratings system. One.

It's slightly better than the room I had in Palmyra, Syria, where there was a rocket shell-sized hole in the concrete wall that let the freezing Syrian air in.... but not much. Four flights of marble stairs, because the lift is a dilapidated old thing with an open shaft, a rusty pulley, and doors that don't close, so you are open to the air around you as you creak slowly upwards. Like, falling-out open to the air around you. Eek.

And the room, which apparently hasn't been cleaned since Cleopatra was empress here, has rock hard beds (good), a lovely sea view (good), faces onto the Midan Saad Zaghoul (which is terribly, terribly noisy) and the whole place looks as though it might go up in flames at any minute due to the shoddy electrics on the wall next to my bed (bad, not surprisingly).

I submit photographic evidence here, so that if in fact the place does explode in a ball of fire while we're here, one of you can produce it triumphantly when you sue the hotel management for negligence and wrongful death, on my behalf.

And, we have a shared bathroom. This will be one of those hotel stays we look back on fondly and laugh about. I hope.

To add insult to injury, I managed to very carefully pack my suitcase last night in Bahrain, and very carefully charged my camera battery, and very carefully put the camera battery back into the camera - and then completely forgot to pack the charger itself. So I had to go out and spent $70 US dollars on a new one the minute after we had checked into our room. Sigh.

 It annoyed me, too, because the last time I was in Egypt - Cairo, Luxor and Aswan - in 2004 with My One True Love, the camera I had at that time was a film one, and it was on its last legs, and it only took about every fifth shot I tried to capture. I was really looking forward to getting some good pics of Egypt this time! So to leave my charger behind ... well, I wasn't very happy with myself.

But here we are, for four days, and we plan to make the most of it. We'd like to see the catacombs, the new Library, perhaps make a day trip to Rosetta (where they found the famous Rosetta Stone that is now in the British Museum), visit the souqs, and take in a bit of Alexandrian life.


So far we've enjoyed a local Stella beer in the very posh Cecil Hotel, we visited one of the famous chocolate shops here, and taken in a film at a run-down old cinema. Which isn't bad for our first night.

Now we're yawning, so it's time for bed .... more - and better - adventures tomorrow.

Wednesday, December 15, 2010

Get thee to an H&M store!

Cough, cough. Cough. Pardon me while I splutter out all the sand in my mouth. You'll be happy to know I've survived the sandstorm - the gale force winds, the sting of sand blasting my skin, the Marilyn Monroe moment this morning when I thought my skirt was going to go over my head - I'm safe and sound.

And just about the very next thing I'm going to do is go to H&M in the City Centre mall here (or maybe Seef actually, I like them both! - though my favourite massive version is in the Dubai Mall) and stock up on some winter clothes. I need to do this for three reasons:

  1. It is now very cold in Bahrain - all of just 20 degrees today, and I am chilly.
  2. I am about to head to Alexandria in Egypt with the White Witch, where it is even colder.
  3. I optimistically thought I wouldn't need any winter clothes, but clearly I've acclimatised to the heat and now I'm as shivery as any native Bahraini

Now, this is totally ok with me . I love clothes. You know I love clothes. And even the people at H&M know I love clothes, because they see me there so often (browsing, My One True Love, browsing, I promise).

For Aussie readers who don't know H&M, firstly - my condolences. You poor, poor things. Secondly, it's like Portmans, Forever 21, and Sportsgirl got together and had a hybrid baby. They do on-trend clothing at affordable prices - really affordable prices.

And this is one of the great things about being back in the Middle East: access to some of my favourite overseas brands - ones you can't get in Australia, like the aforementioned H&M as well as Zara and TopShop and others. H&M tops the list for me though, it seems whenever I walk into that shop I find something I like. Viz the new voile scarf I bought in Lebanon, the owl pendant I recently picked up, the snuggly grey cardigan I covet, my new swimming shorts ... need I go on?

And I've spent the past 10 days cruising their new winter collection, which is in all the shops now (hooray! new collection!) so I know exactly what I'm going to go out and buy.

There's lots of red, which is wonderful - I'm trying to decide between the grey version and the red version of this lovely rollneck jumper here on the left.

And that little girl is so cute it almost (.....almost) makes me want to have a daughter so I can put her in this gorgeous little red sweater dress. Better yet, make me six years old again so I can wear it myself.

I also have a couple of "events" to dress for - Christmas parties and the like. Even though Bahrain is technically an Islamic country, it's very liberal as things go, and there are Christmas decorations in all the stores, along with Christian religious icons and nativity scenes.

I have three dresses I'm trying to choose between.  

I love the red one here, and it has a forgiving empire line which is perfect for scoffing canapes at cocktail parties and still being able to breathe at the end of the night.

And I love this black one too, because it's elegant and would be quite slimming I think (so can still craftily eat canapes you see while pretending to be skinny).

But I think my favourite is this short sparkly one here. It's so cute and festive! That zip down the front gives it a modern edge, while the cut is a classic, and perfect for those who are slightly self-conscious about their booty. And when I say "those" I mean "me" of course. 

I prefer to have sleeves though, so I would team it with the sparkly black shrug - that would keep the winter chill at bay, make me comfortable, and work back the cream effect for a very chic look. Black gladiator heels would be perfect to cap it off. 

So that's parties taken care of. What I also need are snuggly clothes I can just wear at home to be comfortable and warm in.

These lounge pants here are just the ticket, they've got the elastic around the ankles that I like - I know, I hear you, elasticised ankles are not usually a hallmark of style.

But people, I'm living on my own and I hate having cold ankles. I really do.So I'm going to buy these pants no matter what you think.

And I'm going to team them with this stripy top here even though it's a man's top, because I like stripy tops and I'm living on my own and if I want to pair track pants with a stripy top then I'm going to, just because I can. So ner.

 So that's my current H&M wishlist. I really want to know if they're going to stock the new 80-piece Lanvin capsule collection that was released in late November, because if they do I am totally going to buy this amazing yellow dress as well! That is just about my favourite colour in the whole world.
LANVIN for H&M Yellow One Shoulder Ruffle Dress UK12



(I also want this blazer jacket but I really have to find a reason for it first .... can anyone provide me with the perfect excuse? Anyone....?)

Tuesday, December 14, 2010

Walking in a windy winter land

Bahrain had a sandstorm today!

Not just any old sandstorm, but the tail end of a bad-weather front that has swept across the Middle East from Lebanon - where the border with Syria is closed, giant waves have hammered Sidon in the south and heavy dumps of snow have blocked the mountain roads - right through to Egypt, where ships have sunk off the coast of Alexandria.and 28 buildings collapsed in the fierce winds and 11 people died.... Alexandria, where I happen to be heading on Wednesday this week. Yikes.

Sandstorms in the desert region are quite spectacular. They're not quite The Mummy-esque type of sandstorm beloved of Hollywood and Brendan Fraser movies, but they are massive and they do block visibility completely. I tried to take a photo to show you what the vista looked like, but it was completely pointless. All the sand and dust fills the air like a solid mass, and it's impossible to discern anything through it.

Giant wall of impenetrable sand? Check. Men wearing scarves over their heads to protect their eyes and lungs? Check. Incredible gusts of winds that nearly blew me over as I was trying to cross a busy road? Check, check and check. But no photographic proof possible.

So I've holed up here tonight in my porno palace and I'm not going out for love nor money. If you don't hear from me within 24 hours, you'll know I've suffocated in an eleven-storey high pile of sand. Wish me luck.

Monday, December 13, 2010

Pictures of Lebanon

A bombed out building ruin in Beirut
Breadmaker in Tripoli
Unloading fresh sheepskins from the slaughter - check out the flies
At the local market
The river in Tripoli - polluted, just like the rest of Lebanon

Erm ... this was just lying in the street
Na-nie na-nie na-nie naaaa

Fresh dates for sale
Arabic coffee street stall
Tanks guarding the citadel ... and men guarding the tanks
100% pomegranate juice squeezed fresh in front of us - delicious!

Sunday, December 12, 2010

Tripping out in Tripoli

It was the guns that surprised us the most on our day trip to Tripoli.

Guns, everywhere. Men carrying guns. Massive billboard ads for guns. Massive billboard ads featuring heavily made-up women carrying guns. Tanks in the streets. Sniper nests on the corners of buildings.



And children. Young boys shooting each other one the streets, not with popguns, but with very realistic heavy artillery. Machine guns. Automatic rifles. Sawn-off shotguns, grenades, and rocket launchers.


All fake, of course, in the case of the children - though the military police presence was quite, quite real.


The White Witch and I had read about the troubles in Tripoli, in the microbus on the way up the coast from Beirut. There are tensions that still simmer below the surface, and as recently as 2007 there was fighting in the streets.  So I guess the police and army presence is understandable, but it was the kids with guns that really surprised us. 

But then, I guess when you grow up in a volatile environment, and there are violent years of history even in your very recent past; then playing with guns is something that's culturally acceptable - encouraged, even.

This was just lying on the street

We'd gone to Tripoli to check out the souq, which is meant to be one of the best in the region. Unfortunately for us, it was closed on the day we were there, for the feast of Eid Al Adha.

So we visited the citadel on top of the hill instead, and got mobbed by small children in the square outside the Great Mosque, who all begged for photographs from my digital camera, and tried out some of our fledgling Arabic (Ismi Flickettysplits, sabah al khayr, keyfa haluki, askun fi Ustraylia) and ate mounds of baklava in the best cafe in town, which was absolutely fantastic.


But the guns .... it was the guns that left a lingering impression. And the children, mock-killing each other - over, and over, and over again.